Iran, or Persia

Iran, or Persia

Whole books can be written about Iran. I’ll try to restrict myself purely to traveling there and getting around. However, lots of things are happening in Iran, like inflation, some civil unrests, (proxy) wars in neighbouring countries and certain parts of the country being dangerous. Be sure to check the current situation if you are planning to go. International credit cards are not accepted so you need to bring a lot of cash. Visa on arrival is possible. Certain nationals may not be allowed to travel freely and need to be accompanied by a guide.

Iran is a large country, so I had to make choices. How did I decide? I checked where flights were going to. My options were Tehran, Tabriz, Mashad, Isfahan and Shiraz. To be able to also see some countryside I decided fly in at Shiraz, drive to Yazd, an old desert town, and then continue to Isfahan to fly back home.

Beforehand I only booked my first hotel for the first couple of nights and my airplane tickets. I arranged the other hotels while I was there, just like the transportation from city to city.

While it’s somewhat in the same region as Saudi Arabia. The vibe and culture is very different here. Saudi Arabia felt very American to me, while Iran was still more authentic Middle Eastern, culturally and architecturally.

My adventure started at the airport boarding gate at Istanbul Airport. I had an eVisa voucher, which meant, to the check in lady, that I did not have a visa. Therefore I had to wait until they could figure out it was valid. I was the last person to board the plane. Still my passport in my hand I found my seat, next to a beautiful girl (lucky). I greeted her. She immediately asked me where I was from, probably because I said “Hi” and not “Salam” or she simply saw my passport.

We talked the whole flight, apart from a few occasions where she helped an elderly lady in the window seat next to her. She was from Shiraz, one of her sisters lives in the USA and she just came back from a visit. I get various recommendations for great places to eat and Iranian specialties I should try. Before we land we exchange phone numbers and she promises me she will show me around.

The flight attendant makes an announcement: we’re making our descent into Iranian air space, therefore hijab (headscarf) is now mandatory. Inside Shiraz airport I’m the only one who goes to the visa desk. It’s closed. I wait. When everyone’s gone through, I can go.

First I need to take care of some business, swapping money to pay for the hotel. You’ll get a way better rate at one of the exchange offices instead of exchanging at a bank or hotel. Then I start to explore the city. First I visit the Castle of Karim Khan. Secondly I walk through the Vakil Bazaar.

Normally a lot of vendors would try to lure me into their store. That wasn’t the case here. I’m not sure if it’s just not common to do here or because I didn’t look very foreign. Several people in Iran mistook me for a native, on multiple occasions people asked me for directions in Farsi. Of course I couldn’t reply other than to tell them I don’t speak Farsi.

Close by is the impressive Shah Cheragh, a mosque and funeral monument for two important brothers in the Shia religion. I was allowed in the courtyard with a complementary English guided tour, after I could roam the courtyard, but non-muslims weren’t allowed to enter the mosque or the funeral monument. I asked one of the security guards if he could make some pictures with my phone inside of the buildings so I could have a peek, that was not a problem. Here I stayed until sundown so I could also see the buildings get illuminated.

On the way back to my hotel I get something to eat at a restaurant. What I’m going to try is called Ghormeh Sabzi. Various different spices chopped and stewed with rice. I won’t add a picture of it because then you might not want to try it any more. However the taste is amazing. I text my new Shirazi friend. Tomorrow morning we’re going to do some sightseeing.

We meet up in front of Eram Garden. She brought her sister and a friend. Probably it’s not allowed in Iran for an unmarried, unrelated couple to hang out together. These girls are pretty modern however, not entirely dressed in black but very colourful. They tell me that Shirazi girls are known for their beauty throughout Iran. I immediately believe them because I have three examples right in front of me.

The veil they wear is very loose, more like a scarf. They fall off all the time. Mandatory, the sister tells me. When I ask her if she preferred not to wear it, I get no clear answer.

After having walked around some in Eram Garden, I let the girls decide where we go next. This way I know what Shirazi people is most important to see in Shiraz, I figure. Tomb of Hafez is what they picked. Hafez was one of the greatest Persian poets. He was born and he died in Shiraz. His tomb is in a small building in a beautiful garden. Just like at Eram Garden I offer to pay their entrance fee because they’re willing to guide me. They refuse. I don’t insist. Seeing how crowded it was here proved to me that Hafez still is very important to the Irani people.

On the property there is also a little shop. You should visit it because in there they can explain how Khatam is done. It’s a Persian art for decorating wooden surfaces. Basically you stick a lot of thin, long sticks together in a pattern and afterwards you take slices of that which you can decorate your item with.

I gave the girls some liquorice from the Netherlands to try. One of them sat down and told me she really didn’t like it. I think the others didn’t like it either. We meet very few people in foreign countries who actually like it. Still we bring it to see their reactions. However I also brought the famous Dutch stroopwafels, they are a hit and appreciated everywhere.

The next day, I spent the morning by myself. We’re meeting up again later today. Nasir Al-Mulk Mosque is something you may absolutely not miss. You have to be there early, as soon as it opens to catch the sun illuminate the inside of the mosque with beautiful colours. This was one of the few places that felt a bit touristy to me. Because you have to see this early in the morning it can also be crowded, about 10 minutes after I got there a tour bus full of people arrived.

Shiraz has a second important poet: Saadi Shiraz. He also has a tomb surrounded by a beautiful garden. The Shirazi people know how to take care of their important people. At the entrance of this Tomb, there are a lot of ice cream vendors. But it’s not the ice cream we know in the Western world, it’s Persian ice cream called Faloodeh. It’s sticky and refreshing, I liked it a lot.

In the afternoon we went to Qalat village. It’s a lovely old settlement built against a mountain. Do ignore the garbage and some buildings that are run down, once you get to the good part you can enjoy the old buildings, tiny roads and forest which it lies against. There’s a hostel here too for those who want to stay longer or do a climb.

In Qalat Village we also have lunch. Two of the sisters friends meet us there. They order for me because they know what’s tasty there. Various kinds of kebab and grilled veggies fill the table which we swap and share.

I like to think that we had a very good time at lunch and that that is the reason why one of the friends of the sister invited me for dinner that evening. But it might also be the Iranian hospitality. That evening the table is filled again with all kind of Persian dishes. It’s all very delicious and I cannot thank them enough (🙏) for making my holiday so enjoyable.

Just outside of Shiraz there is Persepolis. It’s en route towards Yazd. A lot has been written about Persepolis, so I won’t do the same. You surely should pay a visit. The site is pretty large so you can wander around for a while. Some statues and carvings are well preserved, others not so much. This is also the place where the Shah, removed by the revolution, held the bombastic celebration of the 2,500th anniversary of the Persian empire.

Close to Persepolis, you will find two sites of tombes, Naqsh-e Rajab and Naqsh-e Rostam. These are huge tombes cut out in gigantic rocks, for Persian emperors . A different civilization also did this in what is now known as Saudi Arabia, however they look quite different.

The final stop on the way to Yazd is at Abarkuh. There’s a beehive-looking building which was used to store ice in the past. They also have a beautiful historical house, which is also featured on one of the 20k bank notes. It has a beautiful windcatcher, which is used also for cooling purposes.

During the rest of our drive towards Yazd there is also much to see, at least for someone who’s not used to deserts and mountains. Several different colours of sands pass us by, as well as several differently shaped mountains, from peaky ridges to almost square blocks of rock.

I chose Yazd because it’s close to the desert. It’s an old town. The location forced the people to be creative with water and with architecture. Irrigation and water management was an art here, which of course speaks to me as a Dutchman. There’s a museum worth a visit on how they took care of their water supply in the past.

Old town Yazd is where you want to be, the houses and corridors are all made of mud brick here. You can feel the history. Close to it you find the Jame Mosque of Yazd. It’s built in the 12th century and the minarets are the highest in Iran.

The mosque is decorated with various beautiful mosaic patterns. Be sure to return once more when it’s dark because this mosque is also magnificent when illuminated. If you stay at one of the hotels in old town you will see it when you look out of your window.

Another thing you have to visit once you’re in Yazd is the Tower of Silence. It was important for the Zoroastrians. Here they would expose their dead bodies to the vultures. You can walk around the whole complex. At the top of the hill you can also enjoy a nice view of the city of Yazd and the desert-like surroundings it is located in.

Close to Yazd, there are some sandy dune deserts as well. I take a day trip to one of them, Karakal Desert, close to Bafgh. Depending on the season there are quite some activities here, jeep safaris, camel rides, sand sledding for the kids. I’m in low season and there are only camels. Me and two other tourists are here at the same time. They take a camel ride on a nicely dressed camel. I prefer to walk and I wander into the sand dunes. The sun will set in a few hours. I take off my shoes and the sand feels incredible.

Most trails in the sand are from birds. But most of it looks untouched. After some more walking on the dunes I find a nice spot to enjoy the sunset.

On the way back to Yazd I talk politics with the driver. He’s one of the very few people I’ve talked to who was in favour of the current Islamic regime. He tells me Iran has more equality and less poverty now. It’s an Islamic duty to make sure of that.

This time I travel with a regular cab, a nice man, although he speaks little English. The local travel agencies I inquired were more expensive. Along the way I made 3 stops. Two in Meybod and one in Nain.

The first one in Meybod is Narin Castle, it’s made of mud bricks. Although it’s old and not in the most pristine state it’s still nice to see. An additional bonus it the view of what a smaller city in Iran looks like.

On my way out a very energetic girl walks out of a tent and shouts something in Persian at me. I wonder if she was talking to me and stupidly point to myself. She said I looked Iranian. We laughed about it. She said tea and sweets were offered in the tent. After some talking she invites me for lunch at her parents house. I have to decline because I’m halfway with my driver to Isfahan. She tells me it’s no problem if I want to sleep over. We exchange some gifts and I continue my way.

My second stop in Meybod is the Kabootar Dovecote. Sending letters was only a secondary purpose for doves here. The main purpose was collecting fertilizer for the dry desert lands. Meybod has the most intact Pigeon Tower.

We get back on the road and do one final stop in Nain. There is a nice mosque here. It has several prayer chambers, a courtyard and some tunnels which you can wander through.

Because I stayed too long in Shiraz I only have about two days to see Isfahan. So first off to Naqsh-e Jahan Square. It’s the most impressive square where the souq and most highlights are gathered. Everything is illuminated beautifully at night. I visit all the surrounding places of interest once now they’re illuminated and I come back to see them again in broad daylight on a later day.

There are a lot of people around. Many are going to restaurants or have gotten some street food. Most shops are still open. I buy some gaz. It’s Iranian nougat originating from Isfahan. Delicious.

On second day I walk through the Isfahan river, Zayanderud. Currently it’s dried up. It offers a great view of the beautiful bridges in Isfahan.

Afterwards I go to the Flower Garden of Isfahan to relax and look at the people. There is an entrance fee, once again more expensive for tourists than Iranian nationals. I offer them my best “Salam” and pay the entry for nationals. This is a great place to wander around and to observe Iranian people. Oh, there’s flowers, art and a botanical cactus garden as well.

Vank Church is next on the list. One of the Armenian Churches. The paintings and decorations are beautiful. There’s a tiny museum dedicated to the Armenian genocide and it holds a large list of countries who recognised it.

It’s getting dark and I return to my hotel. I stick around Khaju bridge for a while to see it get illuminated for the night.

I have dinner at a cosy restaurant with nice Persian interior. The seating is traditional. It’s like a mix of table and chair. I ordered Koofteh, Persian meatballs. They’re quite delicious. The Persian cuisine hasn’t disappointed me.

My very last day, later today, late in the evening, I fly back home. I return to Naqsh-e Jahan Square to relax and do some more people watching. Having a tea at one of the cafés. A man sits close to me. He strikes a conversation. He asked me what I thought about Iran. It turned out he was very interested in green energy and windmills. He even knew the names of the green party leader of the Netherlands.

Iran is a beautiful country and the people are so very friendly. If you’re not yet sure where to go, be sure to include Iran on your shortlist. For me this is one of the places I definitely want to return to sometime. Maybe to Mashad, or perhaps Shiraz again.

This trip was made in 2017.

If you have any thoughts or questions feel free to leave a comment!

 culture middle east