Georgia Guest

Georgia Guest

On the Armenian/Georgian border we say goodbye to our Armenian guide Gregor. On the other side of the border we meet guide Tamara and driver Razo. It’s only one hour’s drive to Tbilisi, capital of Georgia. We do the city tour.

Tbilisi served as capital of various Georgian kingdoms and republics. Under Russian rule the city was called Tiflis. In the city center you can’t miss the Bridge of peace. A very modern 150m bridge spanning the river. It’s a popular place, because of cool architecture and for the views of both sides of the river.

You also can’t miss the impressive Palace of the president. At that time mr. Saakashvili. Both our guide and our driver couldn’t imagine someone else to rule the country – but still he was removed from office two years later. The building of the Seminary of the Orthodox church still exists. The most famous student was of course Joseph Stalin. He was a seminarist here long ago, in the 1890s.

Time for lunch. In a kind of a medieval restaurant we choose all kinds of salads combined with nice Georgian wine. Georgians are proud of their wine. The country is considered the ‘cradle of wine’, as archaeologists have traced the world’s first known wine creation back here in 6.000 BC!

We see the statue of King Gorgasali, he is credited with the reorganization of the Georgian Orthodox Church and with the founding of Tbilisi as the capital in the 5th century.

Dominating the capital is Narikala Hill. On top of it there’s a huge statue of Mother Georgia. In her left hand she holds a bowl of wine to greet those who come as friends. In her right hand is a sword for those who come as enemies. An interesting approach!

We end the tour by visiting Tbilisi’s mineral sulfur baths. It’s believed the name “Tbilisi” comes from the word for “warm place”, referring to these natural hot springs. You can actually visit the public baths or private rooms. The sulfuric water is gloriously warm (38-40 degrees) and supposedly therapeutic.

Next morning we drive to Samtavro monastery. An impressive building, dating back to the 4^th century. A famous Georgian monk by the name of Gabriel is buried here. On to the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral. Translated literally Cathedral of the Living Pillar. It’s located in the historic town of Mtskheta. The cathedral served as a burial place for kings. But the most interesting fact is the cathedral is built on top of the burial site of Christ’s mantle.

Relativity close by is a famous medieval monastery; the Shio-Mgvime monastery (‘the cave of Shio’). For ages thousands of monks lived here. It’s very worth looking around here. On our way back we visit yet another monastery called Jvari. It’s on top of a mountain. A beautiful place. The view from here is even better. In the valley below you see two rivers meeting – for those interested : here the Magana river flows into the Enguri river.

Lunch in a restaurant with the same magnificent view. Today we choose the Georgian dumplings along with some Georgian wine of course.

On a matter of personal interest we travel to Manglisi. The road is long and in bad shape. In Manglisi there must be a Texel museum. Texel is a large island belonging to the Netherlands. At the end of World War 2 some 200 Georgian prisoners of war could choose: either death or helping the Germans defending Texel. It goes without saying they choose the latter. But very soon they rose up against the Germans. For some time there was a ‘civil war’ on the island. One of the surviving Georgians founded a small Texel museum in Manglisi.

After speaking to some inhabitants we locate the museum. It’s closed for good. The old couple looking after the place however feels pity for us. They invite us for a small snack. They serve cola, fruit, grapes, cheese and homemade wine. Georgian hospitality. Our driver turns translator and we have a nice conversation with the friendly couple.

Another day – time for one more monastery. The David Gareja monastery was founded in the 6^th century by David Gareja. The complex includes hundreds of cells, churches, chapels, refectories and living quarters hollowed out of the rock face. It’s huge and impressive. I climb some rocks to make a few pics. Difficult but I manage to get back in one piece. Our driver dryly remarks ‘Last year on that spot a French tourist fell down and hurt himself badly.’

That afternoon we visit Gulja Artemidze in Tbilisi. Our travel agency located her, she is the daughter of the late Eugeny Artemidze, the founder of the Texel museum in Manglisi. He fought on the Isle of Texel during the uprising of the Georgians against the Germans.

Her hospitality is like that of the old couple in Manglisi. She put a lot of food and drink on the table. Most of the items in the museum were old and thrown away, some of them were sold. But a few personal things she kept. She shows us the dagger which her father took from a German soldier. Apparently he killed a man with it…

We walk a little in the neighbourhood of the hotel. In a bookshop I buy ‘The Knight in the Panter’s Skin’, written by Rustaveli. He wrote (and lived) in the 12^th century. The poem consists of 1600 quatrains and is considered to be a masterpiece of Georgian literature. It’s a romantic story of love and sacrifice. Until recent times a copy of this poem was part of the dowry of every bride.

Visible from almost everywhere in the city is the main Cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church. It’s the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi, better known as ‘Sameda’. This big, impressive Church is built on a hill on nice grounds with fountains and flowers. It’s interesting to notice a lot of youngsters visiting the Church, cross oneself and pray.

The money museum is established under the National Bank of Georgia (both of them are located near Freedom square, on Leonidze street). The museum exposition leads the visitors around the history of money in Georgia. They even show some coins from the time of Alexander the Great!

Mostly every day there’s a flea market close to the Dry Bridge – officially thus the Dry Bridge Market. You can buy almost everything here. A painting, an antique table or something to eat. The people of Georgia are friendly. The landscapes and the monasteries are very photogenic. Sometimes you have the feeling you walk around in medieval times. But then you spot something that makes you very aware modern influence has arrived…

Trip was made in 2011.

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