Gabon Global

Gabon Global

When visiting a former French colony – like Gabon – you mostly travel through Paris. After a 7 hours flight we reach Libreville. From the air we notice the airport is surrounded by army tanks and a lot of soldiers. Later we see the same thing at government buildings.

Guide Mary takes us to the Meridien Hotel. Surprisingly, the hotel didn’t receive a reservation nor payment. I pay them, we will find out when we are back home. Next day going down for breakfast we spot security in every hallway and even in the streets.

Mary drives us to the airport. Mary is a nice girl but not that decisive. She inquires where we have to report. After a lot of talking and some help from me we finally found our counter. It’s a private flight to a place called Omboué – in the south of Gabon. The counter girl is from the Central African Republic. We should travel there in the future because it’s beautiful, she says.

Driver Julius awaits us at the airport. He drives us to the camp. At about two o’clock we arrive at Loango Lodge. This lodge is one the several lodges in Loango National Park. This famous park in western Gabon, is widely considered one of the most beautiful swathes of Africa, and has become well known for its surfing hippos, western gorillas and various other native wildlife.

Due to some disturbances in Gabon (hence the security people in Libreville) we are the first guests here in months. The lodge is very nice. That afternoon we make a boat safari. We spot hippo’s, monkeys and a lot of beautiful birds.

Safari in Africa means long intensive days plus rising early. So next day we rise at 05.30. After a romantic breakfast with a beautiful view we start. By boat we cross the river; by car we explore the park. Our guides are Patrick and Vaccin.

Among the many animals we see are elephants, forest buffalo’s and red river hogs. From one moment to the next heavy rain pours down. In no time we are wet to the skin. Because the weather is a little windy and warm that doesn’t last long. Later on we experience these short, heavy rain showers occur here often.

End of the morning we approach some elephant relatively close by. By then I made so many pictures my battery is empty. Later that day we travel by boat to a forest camp. It’s a long trip but worth it. A bird’s paradise. We meet darters, kingfishers and a hammerhead bird. The trip seems endless. Around every corner we expect the camp – but no. The last hour reminds me of the river trip in ‘Heart of Darkness’.

Finally we reach camp Akaka. We are welcomed with a nice dinner. There is no electricity here. A battery lamp is placed on one side of the table to attract all kinds of mosquitoes. And to provide some light. On the other side of the table we eat. After dinner it’s bedtime. To go to our cabin we have to climb a muddy and hilly riverside. Luckily we made it.

The days we spend here walking in the jungle along with boat trips. One of our guides (Deko) imitates a monkey and receives response! We see movements; no monkeys. Deko then points at a flower on the ground – a carnivorous plant.

Like we noticed before most wildlife parks in Africa are run by South-African management. So many people, also guides, are of South-African origin. Nice people, though one of them tends to talk a lot of his own country – something you’re not interested in when visiting Gabon.

One of our trips is made by kayak. Relaxed we paddle between the crocodiles (in the water or in the trees!) and the hippo’s. We approach an elephant and cub very close by. Picture time!

We visit a few young people connected to the German Max Planck institute. They study the life of chimpanzees, stay in a camp for months. They tell nice stories about the studies. We enjoy a lively conversation.

Loango National Park is one of the few parks in Africa close to the ocean. So when you’re lucky you can see elephants walking the beach or even plunging in the sea. Also you might spot surfing hippo’s. Well we saw some buffaloes on the beach: an impressive view!

In a big river flowing to the ocean hippo’s are bathing. We ‘see’ hippo’s walking the river bottom. At some times hippo’s enter land to feed. They just walk, don’t stand in their way, they will walk all over you…

We are driven to a ‘transport’ river, where a boat awaits us. Two big chairs are placed in front of the boat. We may take place there for an excellent view and we are seated like a royal couple.

We embark at Gorilla Island. Caretaker Hermann tells us a little about the Gorilla Center. Basically little gorilla’s and other monkeys who were found in the jungle (most of the time their parents were shot by hunters) are collected and taken care of here. There is a platform from which you have a good view of the animals. The plan is to stay here one night. Tomorrow we will fly to Libreville.

Time to move on, by boat to Omboué. We sip coffee on a terrace there. Then Fabrie comes and takes us by motorboat to Port-Gentil. A 3,5 hours trip with alternating rain and sun. Port Gentil is situated on a peninsula and is isolated from the mainland by the ocean and a dense jungle, accessible only by boat or plane. The second largest city in Gabon and a leading seaport, Port Gentil has two sides. On the one hand it is a ramshackle place with only a few tarred roads, surrounded by tropical rain forest. On the other hand, it is a booming petroleum center along with tree timber trade.

We stay at the Meridien. We lunch in a restaurant close by called Le Retro. When I order a bottle of nice wine the waiter tastes the wine, disapproves it and opens another bottle. Where will this first bottle end up? In the evening we go to Le Galion. It’s a bowling, pizzeria, disco, bar and billiard in one place. A lot of expats here. Obviously the place to be!

Next day at 8.30 we wait for transport to the airport. At 9.45 our driver arrives. There is a delay; we fly at 16.00 now. Ok, some more time to spend here. We wander through lots of nice markets. We look around, sit on a terrace and see all these colorful dressed people walk by.

No driver at 16.00. We take a taxi to the airport. The long waiting starts. Check-in takes time. Then all of us have to wait in a big hall, guarded by soldiers. Their leader is a polite man. ‘Just wait’, he says, ’everything will turn out good.’ When the plane is there (Air Congo) the soldiers accompany us to the plane. We have to march in rows of three. Before boarding we have to stand in line. In the evening we arrive in Libreville. Mary drives us to our hotel.

Next day will be last day here. We do some sightseeing in Libreville. Just as in Port-Gentil there are colourful and busy markets to visit. We stroll down the lovely coastal boulevard. Lunch at Port Mole. Nice, next to the ocean.

You wouldn’t expect it but the sales of champagne are in full bloom in Gabon. The latest report of exports of champagne in the world, published last year by the Inter professional Committee of wine placed the country in the top 10 of largest consumers.

We take a taxi to the airport making a great detour. The president is being driven around – with priority on all roads of course – so traffic is a mess. Presidential privilege prevails!

Trip was made in 2009.

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