Go Guyana

Go Guyana

Oddly enough the national airport of Surinam is called ‘Zorg en Hoop’ (‘Care and Hope’). From there we fly to the capital of Guyana – Georgetown. The plane is small; only 10 people check in. After three quarter of an hour we arrive.

The country Guyana is part of the region called ‘the Guianas’. A large shield landmass north of the Amazon River and east of the Orinoco river known as the ‘Land of Many Waters’. Guyana was colonised by the Dutch before coming under British control in the late 18^th century. Though Guyana is roughly as large as Great Britain only 800.000 people live there, mainly in the coastal area.

Guide Sugrun drives us to the hotel. He’s a talkative man. Besides showing us some points of interest he tells us he was cured from covid after drinking a mix of ginger, lemon and turmeric. The latter is a cure for many diseases here. We also hear that from other guides. Turmeric helps lower high blood pressure too; so why don’t we use it more in the Western World?

We are in time at Cara Lodge to have a little breakfast. We flew early and there’s an hour time difference between Surinam and Guyana. Our ‘coordinating’ guide called Shonette comes talking to us. She shares a lot of information. Looking forward to our trip!

We fresh-up and our driver Sugrun arrives. We drive to the river, picking up another guide on our way. In the afternoon we’re at ‘The Landing’. From here we will explore the river by boat. The Mahaica River is a small river in northern Guyana that drains into the Atlantic Ocean. The trip starts, we see a lot. A highlight is spotting the Hoatzin, the national bird of Guyana.

The hoatzin has to be one of the strangest birds found in the Amazon. This bird looks like a pheasant and has more than one stomach, just like a cow! That explains why it is sometimes known as the ‘Flying Cow’. This dinosaur-like bird gives off a strange reptile-like odor and makes a loud call. They are very clumsy when they fly with their large wings and small head.

End of the day we are treated a beautiful sunset. The image is overwhelming. Back at ‘The Landing’ a small dinner awaits us. Sitting outside with a drink and some food : life is good. The only thing bothering us are some mosquito’s…

We rise early. Temperature is already high. Picked up by JT, short for Jamal Thomas. We go to the market for some breakfast. Meet Delven the Cook. The way people treat each other loosely, all seem to know each other and are laughing most of the time, reminds us of the Caribbean way of life; Don’t worry, be happy. Not surprisingly thus Guyana is a member of the regional Caribbean dominated economic union ‘Caricom’.

It’s a big market. We wander around seeing and tasting several vegetables, fruit and other things. The colors and the array of offered things are very impressive. In our country we import two types of bananas. In Guyana they grow at least 15 kind of bananas. We taste the Apple banana, the Sweet banana and the Fig banana. All different flavors! If we like something, especially local products, Delven buys some.

The city tour starts with the sea-wall. Together with several water pumping systems around town these sea-wall was build centuries ago by the Dutch – and still functioning today !

In the National Park you can feed the manatees (sea cows). Just take some grass nearby and start feeding. For my wife this is one of the highlights of Guyana. Manatees are a protected species. They feed mostly under water in rivers where you can’t see them. Thus, unfortunately many times boats injure them accidentally.

St. George Cathedral is an Anglican Church totally constructed of timber wood. It reaches a height of 43,5 meter. It sure is a landmark of Georgetown. At my request we visit the Walter Rodney memorial. Rodney was a Guyanese historian, political activist and academic. The monument was built in memory of Rodney’s strength, endurance and his many contributions to the development of Guyana. The National Museum is, according to our guide a ‘must see’. But alas, we are the only visitors. The Mausoleum of Forbes Burnham is located in the Botanical Garden. Forbes was Guyana’s first prime minister, later president.

Everywhere in the city we see posters ‘Essequibo belongs to Guyana’. This refers to the ongoing territorial dispute between Guyana and Venezuela. Now and then Venezuela threatens to take the Essequibo region – an oil rich area – by force. So far it never led to hostilities.

End of the morning we arrive at Delven’s Backyard Café. A big surprise awaits us. Out of all the food, spices and fruits we tasted (and liked!) at the several markets we visited early this morning, Delven made an excellent lunch. A great way to experience Guyana’s kitchen culture.

In his Backyard Café Delven Adams received famous cook Gordon Ramsay but also former prime minister Tony Blair. Delven’s concept is unique. The simple idea of walking the markets, talking to tourists, showing them the ingredients and then later serving a nice lunch based on what he heard and saw is fantastic. This makes Delven more or less an icon of Guyana.

Early rising today. We fly to the south of Guyana, to Lethem. It’s an inland flight but at the airport of Georgetown we are thoroughly checked. In the waiting room we talk to a French guy who works for the government of French Guyana. Before he worked for the government of New Caledonia, another French overseas territory. He tells this jobs are not that popular but very well paid. After an hour’s flight we land in Lethem. Fransiska (from Waikin Ranch) shows us around in Lethem. First we visit a cashew nut farm. The roads in Lethem are not that good. Fransiska calls them ‘Washboard roads’.

A lot of big shopping malls are located here. These are not meant for locals but for people on the other side of the (Brazilian) border. In weekends it’s very crowded here. Because of this the border is an open border, no checks. Crossing the bridge between the two countries, we drive a little around in Brazil, just for fun.

Waikin ranch is a big farm. Since a few years they also receive tourists. There’s a lot of wildlife and birds to see around the farm. During daytime it’s too hot so in the end of the day we start the tour.

We drive through the savannah, to termite city. A lot of termite hills together. An interesting, rare landscape. A little before daylight starts young guide Esva takes us to a bird rich area. Beautiful sights. Woodpeckers, Kingfishers, an Eagle. Lots of photo opportunities.

Back at the farm we drive immediately to a place where a giant anteater is sleeping in a tree. A huge animal, a beautiful spot.

After lunch driver Marcus takes us to Caiman House, an ecolodge in the heart Yupukari village. Caiman House Field Station and Guest House is a nonprofit community-owned and operated social enterprise. Revenues from visitors support two conservation/research investigations, into the Black Caiman and the Yellow-Spotted River Turtle. This is really sustainable tourism! All community members benefit from this kind of tourists. Former hunters now show people around. Due to their experiences they know the right places to spot beautiful nature and a lot of animals.

The first evening we explore the Rupununi river by motorboat. We accompany the caiman research crew. From a separate boat they try to capture a caiman. In less than an hour they succeed! The big animal is brought on land, his jaws closed with tape. Along with the crew we assist in data collection. The caiman is among other things weighed, measured and sexed.

When you touch the back it feels extremely hard. The belly then is very soft. In the end the caiman is tagged by removing few ‘triangles’ of the tail. In this way the caiman is numbered and will be recognized if they capture him again. Finally he is released. The man step aside fast and the caiman slips into the water.

What an experience! Playing our own role in a National Geographic Documentary! On our way back we see some Amazon tree Boa’s; also something you don’t see every day.

Next day we visit a big lake by canoe. Highlight is the rising sun. Many birds to photograph. At the field station we are shown several saved turtles. And a big sandbox containing turtle eggs. When the turtles are born, grown up a little, local youth each put one turtle back in the river. This occasion is off course called ‘Turtle Day’.

I see a stray dog eating a mango. Never saw that before. He obviously likes it. We walk around the small village. Visit the local health center. And a school. Not all buildings are finished. It seems covid slowed down some developments. On the other hand the houses got only running water some 10 to 12 years ago. Till that time people had to walk to the river to get water.

Dinner that evening with guide Howard and assistant Pio. Silence seems to be a virtue here. Sometimes very quiet Howard tells a little story. Pio never speaks unless you ask him something. When I compliment the kitchen ladies they just smile.

A little excitement : house cat Panda jumps on the table. No one acts. I rise, pick up the cat and put him on the floor. Silence again.

Today Marcus, Howard and Pio take us to the Savannah. But before, during our morning tea we go outside to have a look at a beautiful Pygmy Owl.

There’s a period of exceptional drought in the region. Sometimes fire breaks out spontaneously. On several places smoke burns your eyes.

In a nice environment we spot some beautiful birds – Howard says ‘boirds’ – like the Vermilion Flycatcher, Marsh Tyrant, Hawk and Tropical Mockingbird.

Afterwards we visit the Caiman House Craft market. People demonstrate their ability to make nice things, mainly from all kinds of wood. We buy a few items to take home.

On the last day here during breakfast Howard tells – more or less off hand – that one of his dogs got a little too close to the river and was eaten by a caiman. Then he sips his coffee again. We drive to the Rupununi river. By boat Howard and Pio will bring us to our next camp. Because of the drought the water level in the river is very low. Therefore it takes some more time to get there. Now and then the guides have to get out to push the boat forward. But there’s enough to see while travelling. Water Birds and also the Giant Otter among others.

We arrive in Karanambu. Manager Edward receives us. During lunchtime we meet some of the other guests. Most of our fellow travellers are British. Then guide Kenneth takes us for a nature walk. Fascinating is the long-nosed Bat Kenneth spots. Later on we see two copulating Jacana’s. A spotted Puffbird. Kenneth knows the places. When we sit down along the river at the end of the day on the other side of the river coati’s show up to drink. Nice view!

Next day we go by boat to make a bush walk. Nice photographs of new (for us!) birds. Though Kenneth is somewhat older he still gets very excited when he can show us something special. He is very enthusiastic when he spots a Black-crested Antshrike. Later that day we visit a big lake full of water lilies. We go close to watch the flower open – 45 minutes from start to full open.

Walking back we see a big Cane Toad. On the savannah next day a totally different landscape unfolds before our eyes. Spotted by a ‘vaquero’ (cowboy) we see a giant anteater.

After that Kenneth points out a beautiful bird. A lot of colors. It’s the Orange-backed Troupial. That evening it’s windy at the lodge. Because it’s our last evening here a BBQ is organized. Nice food accompanied with a rum punch. Unfortunately it starts to rain so we have to cut the evening short.

From Karanambu we are brought to the Ginep Landing – a place in the middle between Karanambu and our next camp. Here Ovid awaits us. He is our new driver. We make a stop at Pakaraima Mountain Inn.

Lunch is served here. Manager Charlie de Freitas talks a lot. He is a nice man with a lot of stories to tell. He also sings a song for us. After that he shows us around. Because I am fond of sixties and seventies music too, together Charlie and I sing ‘Sweet Caroline’. It’s a lot of fun.

Another stop in the Iwokrama National Park. We walk a trail which leads us to one of the few places where the Cock-of-the-Rock lives. This shy bird chooses rock formations as living environment. So it’s a huge climb for us. We see one but it’s very difficult to photograph.

We arrive at the Atta lodge. From the lodges we visited (and will visit) this is the smallest, most basic one. The rooms may have been modern some time ago; now they are ‘gone glory’. The rules here are pretty rigid. All light (also in the rooms) are put on at six each morning, the same time the excursions start. So freshen up and getting dressed has to be done in the dark. When we ask why people shrug their shoulders.

Our guide is called Carlon. He is from the Macushi Tribe and proud of that. He takes us to the Iwokrama Canopy Walkway. This is a series of suspension bridges and decks of up to 30 metres in height! It allows us to close views of the upper canopy of the forest. Excellent for birdwatching. A steep climb but worth it. On our way back we spot a sloth high in the trees. And also a parrot in a hole in a tree.

Like most guides Carlon has a bird-app on his phone. By playing their sounds he tries to lure them to us, or to somewhere in our distance. A nice strategy but it seldom works. In the camp some Black Curassows wander around, looking for food all day.

Driver Ovid picks us up to take us to Rock View Lodge. From here we will be brought to our next destination. Though we only stay a short time we are able to make some nice pics of the Glittering Throated Emerald.

The Rewa people arrive. They drive us through small forest roads. A bumpy ride! My wife says ‘The road goes crazy’. A local woman with a baby sits in the behind of the car. In spite of the wild driving she succeeds in breast feeding her child.

Finally we stop at a river. From there by boat to Rewa Lodge. We are put in a nice house with two hammocks in front of it. The excursions are early morning or early evening. During daytime it’s so hot that one of the best things to do is lay in your hammock…

Today we make a special trip. Very early we start by boat. Water level is low and we’re going against the flow thus making it difficult to manoeuvrer the boat. On our way we spot kingfishers, some red-capped cardinals, black caimans and a lot of other animals.

After 3 and a half hours we reach our destination. What follows is a long bush walk. We see butterflies and also a left snake skin. We stop, the guides poke around a little in the ground. Then he shows himself. A large Goliath bird-eating spider; the biggest tarantula in the world. A hairy spider. Scary to see!

Lunch along the riverside. The guides brought along the hammocks, put them in place so we can take a little rest. The trip back is much shorter. Highlight on the trip back is a beautiful Tiger Heron.

Next day by foot to Rewa village. Small town. Built like other villages. A health centre, a school, a community centre. Nice talking to some school children.

Today we move on. At breakfast our neighbour fellow traveller tells he found a red snake in his toilet. After taking some pictures it seemed better to him to call his guide to remove the snake. The man is in his eighties by the way and still going strong – you have to, visiting places like this! By boat to the landing strip. We are there round eleven. At twelve a boy on a motorbike comes by to tell the plane is delayed. After some time the small plane arrives.

Two pilots in front, than the two of us and a guide in the back between the luggage. In 45 minutes we reach Kaieteur Falls. Kaieteur Falls is the largest single-drop waterfall in the world and it is located on the Potaro river in Kaieteur National Park, central Essequibo Territory. It is 226 metres (741 ft) high. According to a Indian legend, Kaieteur Falls was named for Kai, a chief, who acted to save his people by paddling over the falls in an act of self-sacrifice.

We see the waterfall from the sky. Then we land and descend the plane. Guide Carlos shows several places around the falls. Because of the drought Kaieteur now runs on only 20% of its capacity. It’s still impressive. We see a rainbow reflecting in the falls.

Carlos spots the Golden Frog who only lives here. We are also happy to see the Cock-of-the-Rock again. They are posing for us.

We fly back to Georgetown. On the airport Sugrun is present. He drives us to Cara Lodge. The wine at the hotel bar tastes good. Reflecting on our extended trip. What a beautiful country.

We still vividly remember a conversation with two of our guides. They wanted to know why we came to visit the nature and the wildlife of Guyana. We told them in our country we don’t have these wild and unspoilt places anymore. Guyana we chose because not many people go there – yet.

Funny enough this discussion started with their question: ‘What kind of monkeys do you have in your country?’

Trip was made in 2024.

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