Mysterious Myanmar

First we fly to Bangkok. Our last stop before Myanmar. A long trip from where we live. We stay the night in a hotel next to the airport. For dinner we have ‘massaged meat’. Meaning meat from cows who were massaged during their lifetime –   take that with a grain of salt.

Trip to Yangon

The following day we fly to Yangon. Yangon was the capital of Myanmar and still the biggest city of the country. Guide Soe and driver Nanda welcome us at the airport.

Although it’s late afternoon we make our way through the heavy traffic to the Shwedagon Pagoda. We leave socks and shoes in the car and enter the Pagoda on bare feet.

The Pagoda dominates the Yangon skyline. It’s the most sacred Buddhist Pagoda in Myanmar, containing relics of four previous Buddhas.

Very impressive to see. Much people praying here. The feeling of walking around on bare feet offers a special dimension…

Nature Park

We make a trip through nature. A little birding. Although we were told birding is uncommon in Myanmar we already meet an English birding group this day.

We visit Hlawga Nature Park. There’s a mini-zoo next to the Hlawga lake. Late afternoon we arrive at Moe Yun Gyi Wetlands resort where we stay the night. A lot of water here and a lot of small bridges. We sleep in a kind of a boat.

Next day we travel the swamps by boat. Many photo-opportunities and a lot of nice birds. Among them the beautiful Bee-eater.

Traveling to Golden Rock

Travel day. Ride through places, rice fields, rubber plantations. Finally we reach Kin Pun. We take lunch in a nice, open restaurant. The staff knows our guides. That evening, guess what, we have dinner at the same place. Whenever we drink tea (almost with every meal) our caring driver Nanda cleans the cups in advance.

After early rising we are taken to a crowded place where the trucks await us. Every truck transports at about 50 passengers to the top of the mountain. We’re going to visit the Golden Rock! It’s a sensational drive.

Halfway we get out to do a little birding. There’s a wedding going on close by. Bride and Groom pose for us.

On it goes to the Golden Rock. At a crowded place we arrive. We drop our luggage in a basket. Servants carry the baskets on their back to the various hotels. The place is bigger than we thought. We walk on a large holy square – barefoot again.

Golden Rock

Perched dangerously on the edge of a cliff, pilgrims have been visiting here for centuries to meditate and give offerings to the Buddha. The gold-leaf covered stone certainly inspires all who visit.

According to legend a Buddhist hermit was given a strand of hair from the Buddha himself. He gave it to the king. The king built the small Pagoda atop the rock to enshrine the Buddha’s hair for all eternity.

The hotel is nice, a bit dated. There is water in our small room. A bit too much, on the floor some water flows.

We walk around. A lot of pilgrims, many monks among them, visit this place. I buy a small bell to chain to a fence close to the Rock. This is intended for good luck. Women are not allowed to do this.

At sundown we make some beautiful pics of the Golden rock. Dinner then. Most kind of food we know by now. Soe always joins us. He’s eating very fast.

More Myanmar

The breakfast consists of rice and hot soup. I ask for some toast. Luckily some is provided.

We check out, drop the luggage in a basket. The truck starts and we leave the mountain. Again we survive the messy ride…

On it goes. Along the way we visit another monastery. We meet a lot of fairly young monks.

Later we walk next to a river where many fisher boats offer nice photo opportunities.

After that we check in to Bago star hotel. We visit the Kyaik Pun Pagoda close by. Very nice.

A lot of women and children have a paste of yellowish-white color applied over cheeks and nose. This is called ‘Thanaka’. It acts as a natural sunblock. In addition it also provides a refreshing, cooling effect during hot days.

We take dinner in a good Chinese restaurant. Soe orders duck for us. When it arrives and served on the table, every time Soe says ‘Shall we go’; meaning ‘Enjoy your meal’.

Statue of the Buddha

After breakfast we spot an endemic White-throated Barbler. We then drive to the Kyaly Khat Wai monastery. It’s a tradition monks enter the dining room as on their way passers-by (mostly tourists however) offer them food and money. In a long line the monks walk by us, accepting our various gifts.

A market and some shops before we visit the Shwethalyaung Temple. Here you find a lying statue of the Buddha. It’s the second largest in the world at a length of 55 meters and a height of 16 meters.

Yangon again

On our way to Yangon we pass (and stop to have a look) a memorial site commemorating the Allied soldiers who died in the Second World War.

In Yangon we take a look at the house of Aung San Suu Kyi, the famous politician of Myanmar, also known as ‘the Lady’. Not much to see from the outside however.

Inland Myanmar: Kalaw

We fly to Kalaw. According to the travel brochure Kalaw is famous for the idyllic beauty of rolling hills, verdant mountains, in addition small local villages as well as the colorful daily life here.

Our resort is called the Pine Hill resort. We do a little birding here. In the evening Soe our guide joins us.

Soe takes us on a trip. We are seated in an open jeep. Our driver tries to reach a bird rich area but everywhere we encounter soldiers. Thus no more traveling here…

Later on we visit a cave Pagoda. The small Shwe U Min Cave. Nice to see however.

Inle Lake

From Kalaw we drive to Inle Lake. By boat we explore the Lake. People living here are called Intha, meaning ‘sons of the lake’. Because they live more or less ‘on the water’ they row their boats by feet.

Among the must-sees are floating islands and agricultural farms surrounded by water. We visit a weaving house. Apart from silk workshops there’s a lot of traditional silversmithing. Because so many tourists come here there are also some ‘Padaung’ women ‘on display’. These women wear brass neck rings so their neck is very long. These women however come from another region in Myanmar (Loikaw, Kayah State).

When the sun goes down we see a leg rowing fisherman. The light is beautiful. To sum up; he offers a very romantic view.

So many Birds

Today we go by boat onto the lake again. Above all we like to do a lot of birding. We spot some nice ibises. Lunch in a cozy restaurant on stilts. In the lake, close to the Pagoda.

We spend some time on an observation platform. So much to see here! All kind of waterbirds on a short distance. Really a paradise view for bird watchers. Highlight is a heron wearing breeding plumage.

Back in the hotel I finish a book about famous British writer George Orwell. He served in the army and was stationed in Burma. This book by Emma Larkin describes his ‘Burma years’.

To Pa-O people’s village

We visit a village where Pa-O people live. These people are an ethnic minority living in Myanmar. They are well-known by their colorful clothing.

The boat has trouble reaching this village because we go against the tide. Then there are diversion dams connecting higher and lower water. But our captain does well. It’s a 2 hours trip though.

Lots of shops here. A little too touristic however. Great views though. We buy a small painting made on palm leaves. A boy shows me his tattoo – it’s a scorpion tattoo. Would I like one?

More Yangon

We fly back to Yangon. We stay a few days at the Governor’s Residence. A luxury resort close to the city centre.

Walking around in Yangon. It’s very hot here. In no-time my shirt is wet from sweat…

When it’s coffee time we take it in the Strand Hotel. This hotel, though renovated, is a beautiful leftover from colonial times.

Probably because of the heat people live mostly outside. We see people working, talking, selling things. The many terraces are full of people. It’s a privilege to join them.

Reflection

On our way to the airport I reflect on the boy with the scorpion tattoo. This tattoo represents strength, power and a fighting spirit. But also it symbolizes a rebirth or a new start after an important change in your life.

So perhaps I should have taken a scorpion tattoo because this visit to Myanmar really changed my life –  at least a little bit.

Trip was made in 2016.