Madagascar Meetings

Madagascar Meetings

Alitalia, the Italian airline, flies us to Madagascar. Their own airline – Air Madagascar – is temporarily forbidden to enter the European Union. So they made a deal with the Italians.

In the middle of the night we touch down on Ivato International airport. From there it’s only a short drive to Madagascar’s capital Antananarivo. Because it’s such a long name everyone calls the capital just Tana.

Guide Roland takes us to hotel Tamboho. The hotel is located in the city center on the shore of Lake Masay. Lively city. Street vendors everywhere. For tonight only a few hours of sleep.

In the morning we walk around a little. Options are limited because the hotel is on a guarded compound. A kind of a protected area. Some shops, embassies, one other hotel. Just a few streets. Where you get out (or in) soldiers are standing on guard. Tana is a relatively dangerous city for Western people. This is due to political agitation which started in 2009, leading to violent riots and civil unrest for some time. But when you are with a guide you can visit the important sights.

One of those sights – close to Tana – is the palace of King Andrianampoinimerina who ruled the Kingdom of Imerina (the area great-Tana) from 1788-1810. He is considered one of the greatest military and political leaders in the history of Madagascar. The palace and its surroundings are on the Unesco Heritage list.

The King had 12 wives. When they talked to guests the King was lying out of sight on the top floor, overhearing the conversation. By throwing little stones he gave his opinion. Also interesting: when he took a bath it had to be filled with water by 70 virgins.

Lunch close by in a mountain-top restaurant called Tsara Tazana. Beautiful views all around. When we’re leaving the Palace area we spot a nice Chameleon who is changing color to adjust to his new environment.

Sightseeing Tana then. On from the Rue de l’Independance to the Place de l’Independance. Most African countries have a place like that. Lots of people here. Though the atmosphere is African almost half of the population is of South-East Asian descent. Their ancestors came from far away long time ago.

A common sight and nice to see; school children dressed in uniform. We visit the Rova Palace Complex. Nice but a little gone glory. Stories about a Queen who boiled Christians in cooking pots… We quickly skip ahead.

A short walk on Analakely Market. We visit the railway station, a viewpoint, the city steps. We take look at the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Slowly driving around we see lots of beggars. Most of the time guide Roland closes all doors to prevent them from bothering us.

In the beginning of World War 2 the German Nazi party made plans to deport all European Jews to Madagascar. This was called the Madagascar Plan. It was never implemented. In the time we spend in Madagascar I asked several guides and other people we met whether they ever heard of this plan. Nobody had heard of it.

^{Panther Chameleon catching prey}

A domestic flight – Air Madagascar this time – to Maroantsetra. We stay in the Relais de Moroantsetra. A nice place with already some lemurs and exotic birds. Everywhere we sleep during this trip there are some Day Gecko’s in our room. Don’t be afraid, don’t chase them away! They keep your room clean of insects and flies.

Next morning guide Felix arrives. An energetic young guy, full of stories. For instance; he supposes we know Sinbad the sailor – we do. In that story a big bird Roc appears. This bird is based on the big birds that once lived in Madagascar. Felix learned to speak English from a volunteer working for Peace Corps. Except for his native language (Malagasy) he also speaks a little Japanese.

We visit the island called Nosy Mangabe. It’s a wildlife reserve. Here we walk around, however, it feels more like hiking. We see our first lemurs, lizards and lots of chameleons. Beautiful.

A fast boat takes us to the Masoala Peninsula Park. It takes an hour and it’s a bumpy ride. Weather is unpredictable here. It’s hot, the sun shines – and five minutes later a tropical shower hits us. You are soaked through and through. But the high temperatures and the sun which came out again see to it that you are dry in no time.

At the lodge we are welcomed by Sandra. She will take care of us in this place, guide Felix came with us. The lodge is accessible only by boat. In this 2.300-sq national park treetops are alive with all kinds of lemurs and the flutter of rare birds. Furthermore empty beaches, mangrove forests and rocky coves. Paradise? It’s like the Garden of Eden!

Felix takes us for a walk. We are in the best of moods. Free to the song ‘Felix the Cat’ we sing ‘Felix the guide, the wonderful wonderful guide’. See some splendid wildlife including several colored frogs. Also interesting : the Leaf-tailed Gecko. This animal fits its surroundings perfectly. If Felix hadn’t pointed the gecko out for us we would have missed it.

In the evening we go for a night safari. Interesting to see sleeping birds – eyes open! Felix also spots a lemur-mouse. And some woolly lemurs. We spend days exploring. By feet, by piroque and by snorkeling.

Finally the fast boat arrives and takes us back to mainland. We fly back to Tana. Roland picks us up. Do we spot French singer Gérard Lenorman in the parking lot? Lunch in Tropical Hotel. Rice served with rabbit. A stop at the Park Marovezo. This park is also known under other names. It’s a small zoo with typical local animals.

Driving on to the city of Moramanga. In this crowded place we look around a little. Among others we visit a large market. At last we arrive in Vakona Forest Lodge. A drink, dinner & bed.

Visiting the Mantadia park close by. We see something very special: the Giraffe necked Weevil. A kind of insect. Only to find on Madagascar. The afternoon we spend on Lemur Island. All sorts are represented here, including the beautiful colored Diademed Sifaka. We also spot the Indri! This is a sympathetic Teddy Bear like Lemur. Friends of us who also visited Madagascar named their daughter Indri, after this beautiful animal.

Walking round in Joffreville, small town close to a very big waterfall. And a nice landscape of red tsingy, dating back to the Pangea time, the time the continents drifted apart. After visiting Joffreville market we finally arrive in the Park called Ankarana.

We do a walking safari. Lots of Baobab trees here. Nice colored birds and the lemurs off course. Guide Clement spots the Northern Sportive Lemur and the Crowned Lemur. And the Ring-tailed Mongoose.

Then there´s a bat cave. Wow. Very big. When we enter it we see literally thousands of sleeping bats, hanging on the inside roof. Outside again we spot a greenish chameleon. So much to see here. All this being part of the whirlwind of impressions that make up the paradise of Madagascar.

Flying to the most northern place of Madagascar. Landing on Diego (now Arrachart) Airport. There’s a statue here of Pope John Paul the second who visited in 1989. We look around in harbor city Antsiranana.

History learns that during World War 2 Japan considered occupying Madagascar. This would establish a Japanese foothold close to Africa with the potential of changing the course of the war. In 1942 the Allies selected Antsiranana harbor as their initial invasion point. The Japanese responded with an attack by midget submarines on the British naval forces damaging and sinking some tankers.

After some sightseeing we fly to Mahajanga. Our driver Fanu takes us in a two hour drive to the park Ankarafantsika. We meet our guide for the coming days. A nice man called Andrema.

First time we stay in a Gîte, French word for a small place to stay. The Gîte is located close to a lake. Later Andrema tells us that children playing on the edge of the lake were attacked by a big crocodile.

Next day, after breakfast served by Andrema’s sister, we go for a day long walking safari. Among others we see lemurs, a lot of birds and a beautifully colored frog. But then we see something very special. A metallic blue colored Madagascar Magpie Robin is sitting still in a tree. We can approach it close by; it even comes closer to us. We look around. Then suddenly we see it. A snake is entering the tree, set to attack the Robin. The Robin – although it could fly away! – seeks protection from us. What happened? Did the snake hypnotize the bird? It takes one, two minutes, then finally the snake backs off. This is quite an experience.

All kind of snakes here. From big to very small. Andrema is a very good guide. He is a real bird spotter. We never met one as good as him. By imitating their noise and their singing Andrema lures certain birds towards us!

Back to Tana. Every time we enter the capital we pass a huge complex. It’s the embassy of America. Very big. Madagascar must be important for them.

Then by private plane (a Piper Aztec, for those interested) to a relaxing lodge. Flying not too high we overlook a nice landscape beneath us. All the pilots flying these private planes know each other. The pilot of this plane has some gossip on his colleague we met in Maroantsetra, That guy is forbidden to fly this direction because he bothered some local girls near the lodge…

After one hour and a half we touch down close to one of the most beautiful resorts we ever visited; Anjajavy lodge. The resort is located at the beach. But also a lot of nature and wildlife in the neighborhood. Much to see, much to do. Swimming, lying lazily in the sun. The lemurs visit your house, literally…

At five high tea in Oasis garden. We sip the tea looking at lemurs. There is some nice fruit for them in the garden. Beautiful kingfishers at the small pond. In the evening a dance group performance. They sing, they dance. Amazing how as a group they portray the chameleon, the lemurs.

A big binocular is put down on the lawn. We are able to see the moon and Saturnus with its rings. Cedric, one of the people who runs this place shows us. Cedric is very proud that he can trace his ancestry for more than thousand years. Sir Francis Drake is one of his ancestors.

A boat trip then. Our views include the fish eagle on its nest, fishermen on their boats and a small village build around a holy baobab.

When leaving the resort we see a new small guesthouse being build. There is some drainage. Water pours out all the time. The thirsty lemurs know that. It’s a nice sight. Standing in line, waiting for their turn the drink the water.

This trip was made in 2011.

If you have any thoughts or questions feel free to leave a comment!

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